Pocomoke, Maryland to Virginia Beach, Virginia (cycling: 80 miles, 128.75 km)

I cycled in a light misty rain for the first 2 hours upon leaving Pocomoke, Maryland. My legs felt good and the light rain kept the temperature reasonable. Taking the full day off made a big difference.

I travelled down Hwy 13 through beautiful countryside and through the small towns of New Church, Bloxom, Parksley, Onley, Melfa, Painter, Exmore Nassawadox, Eastville, Cheriton and Cape Charles. Highway 13 had a generous 3-5 foot shoulder for its entire length with the exception of the stretches within those towns. The shoulder would unceremoniously end and I would tight-rope ride the white line at curb side. There were no sidewalks in these towns. This I concluded was a reflection of American car culture. People living in these towns don't walk, they don't bike, they drive there cars wherever they go.

"Honk if you Love Jesus. Text While Driving... If you want to meet Him!" There were a list of concerns that I could have used to rationalize myself from taking this bicycle tour... severe weather patterns, 50 years old and out of shape, people texting while driving... I can be pretty headstrong once I make up my mind about something and none of these issues were going to deter me.

America has changed quite a bit since my 1986 bicycle tour to Florida. The hand of a white man, shaking the hand of a black man on a huge roadside bulletin board along Hwy 13 in Virginia was something that I never saw in 1986.

If you've been following this blog from the beginning, you will recall that I wanted to take a ferry from Liberty State Park in Jersey City, New Jersey to Liberty Island, but due to the ongoing repairs from Hurricane Sandy Damage I took at ferry directly to Manhattan. It turns out I did get a close-up of the Statue of Liberty:  

This Statue of Liberty was in front of the Liberty Tax Service Office along Highway 13 in Exmore, Virginia.

I was making great time travelling down Hwy 13 and I was well aware that I was getting closer to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. On the other side of the bridge I would be only a few miles from the location of the life-changing event during my 1986 bicycle tour. I wasn't afraid so much as in deep contemplation. My family and many of my friends know that one of the main reasons for this bicycle tour is to conquer the repressed memories that have surfaced and fears associated with having been a victim (now survivor) of a severe crime during that 1986 bicycle tour. I pedalled on...

A group of cars passed me and I couldn't help but notice the custom license plate of one: "PSALM 91" Most of you will be familiar with the opening verses of this Psalm,

He who dwells in the secret place of the Most High
Shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty.
I will say of the Lord, "He is my refuge and my fortress;
My God, in Him I will trust."
                                                  Psalm 91:1-2 NKJV

The amount of peace that I had when I simply saw a license plate with "PSALM 91" was indescribable. If seeing that license plate wasn't enough, within a few hundred meters I saw this roadside marker and was compelled to stop and photograph it:

I wasn't specifically looking for comfort and assurance at the time, but I was graced by it. Another mile down the road a church van passed and I read the phrase printed across the van's back doors:
"Come follow us to victory." I was already believing in my victory over the past.

This sign by Pro-life Across America states, "A Father's Joy!" and is subtitled with the Matthew 18:5 scripture reference, "And whoever receives one such child in My name receives me." The Pro-life - Pro-choice debate continues to be a divisive topic with Americans. For me, I have no doubt that life begins at conception. This is not a faith based statement, but rather one based upon my education and training as a chiropractor. Each one of us is comprised of approximately 50-100 trillion cells... yes an estimated 50-100 trillion cells... that all started as 1 cell. As for the sign that states, "A Father's Joy!", the greatest joy and honour in my life was holding my new born son Sean.

The last 10 miles to the Chesapeake bay Bridge-Tunnel were tougher than the first 64 miles. The rain had stopped, the south wind was stronger, the sun was out and the temperature was high.

After a 20 minute wait at the Administration Building of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, I loaded my bike onto the back of pick-up truck that would shuttle me for $12 along the 23 miles of bridge and tunnels from toll booth to toll booth that were off limits to bicycles and pedestrians. I noticed the time was 4:44 pm when I climbed into the cab of the pick-up truck with Ricky of the Bridge-Tunnel Emergency Crew. The Bridge -Tunnel system, now 50 years old was well maintained. Despite the large shoulder on the bridges, I was glad to not cycle once we entered the long tunnels with no shoulder.

Along most of Hwy 60 there was no shoulder to ride along, so I was happy to find this adjacent bike trail for part of the way.

Roadside flowers along Hwy 60. Above is the Trumpet Creeper (Campsis Radicans).

On the other side of the Bridge-Tunnel, my ride along Hwy 60 was only 6 miles to First Landing State Park (formerly Seashore State Park).

During the depression years Seashore State park had been built by an all African-American regiment of the Civilian Conservation Corps. This was a relief program of the "New Deal" era and employed young black men aged 17-25. They constructed over 20 miles of trails, drained marshes, built cabins, and plants trees and shrubs.

Across from my campsite I met 35 year old Eli who was interested in my trip. He works for Norfolk Southern Railroad as a recruiter and prefers camping to hotels when doing his work travel. I quickly saw Eli as a kindred spirit, especially when he explained that he had completed a BA and MA in history. His Masters Thesis focused on US College Football History. At one point he mentioned the Military Academy, The Citadel and I quickly recalled the excellent memoir by Pat Conroy, entitled My Losing Season, which focused on Conroy's experience as a student-athlete on the Citadel Basketball team.

Eli strummed his guitar as he sat on the tailgate of his pick-up truck - while I dozed off in my tent. I was awaking a few times by the thunderous sound of Naval Fighter Jets and the sputter-drum of Naval Helicopters performing exercises nearby. First Landing State Park is adjacent to Fort Story Military Base and close to Oceana Naval Air Station.

***

Monday July 1st, 2013

Happy Canada Day!

Early morning on the walkway over the dunes to the beach, First Landing State Park, Virginia Beach, Virginia.

The sand and Chesapeake Bay salt water felt pretty good to my feet. Check out the tan line from cycling :-)

This spectacular view was well worth crawling out of my tent at 5:15 this morning.

I spoke to a Park Ranger, Marsha, who gave me instructions on how to travel toward the Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina.

Rain off and on all day today so I'll be staying another night at First Landing State Park, Virginia Beach, Virginia.